A campervan is a significant purchase. Fifteen minutes of proper inspection is worth considerably more than the price of a second trip, a specialist inspection, or - worst case - a repair bill after purchase.

Before you arrive

  • Check the registered keeper history on a paid vehicle check (HPI or similar). Confirm outstanding finance, write-off history, stolen status, plate changes.
  • Verify the MOT history at gov.uk/check-mot-history. Note any recurring advisories.
  • Ask the seller: who did the conversion, when, and is there any documentation?
  • Ask for photos of the conversion before viewing if you haven't already seen them.

The base vehicle - exterior

Work around the van systematically. Don't get distracted by the conversion before you've checked the vehicle.

Bodywork

  • Panel gaps consistent all round (inconsistency suggests accident repair)
  • Paint match consistent - check door edges and shut lines for respray signs
  • Sills and wheel arches for rust (common failure point on older T5s)
  • Underneath: check for excessive corrosion on chassis rails and floor
  • All lights working - front, rear, indicators, fog
  • Windscreen: chips or cracks (these are MOT advisories waiting to happen)
  • Tyres: tread depth even across each tyre, no cracking on sidewalls, age (check DOT date stamp)
  • Spare wheel present and in usable condition

Pop-top or high-roof (if fitted)

  • Canvas in good condition, no tears or holes, seams intact
  • Mechanism operates smoothly - no sticking, no grinding
  • Closes flush with no gaps
  • Struts hold the roof up without assistance
  • Seals visible around the perimeter

The base vehicle - under the bonnet

If you're not mechanically confident, bring someone who is, or pay for an independent inspection.

  • Oil level and condition (dark black = overdue service; grey/milky = coolant contamination)
  • Coolant level and colour (should be green/blue, not brown)
  • No visible oil leaks around the engine or gearbox
  • Drive belts in good condition, no cracking
  • Battery terminals clean and tight
  • Service history present and consistent with mileage

The base vehicle - on the move

Take it for a drive. A proper one - not just up the road.

  • Cold start: does it start easily and idle smoothly?
  • No warning lights on the dashboard
  • Gearbox: smooth through all gears, no crunch or hesitation
  • Clutch: no slipping or juddering
  • Brakes: progressive and even, no pulling to one side
  • Steering: no vibration or pulling
  • No unusual noises under acceleration, braking or over bumps
  • Turbo spools up cleanly (T5 and T6 are turbodiesels - a slight whistle is normal, a loud whine or lag is not)

The conversion - general quality

  • All joinery secure, no movement or rattling
  • Surfaces consistent - no gaps between units and walls larger than 5mm
  • No visible water ingress marks (tide marks, staining, soft wood)
  • All doors and drawers open and close smoothly
  • Worktop material in good condition - no swelling, delamination or water damage at edges
  • Overhead lockers secure and closing properly
  • Floor covering in good condition, no lifting or damp underneath

Smell test - open the van, spend a minute, and notice. A musty or damp smell is a red flag. A diesel smell inside (other than from a recent heater run) is worth investigating.

Electrical system

  • Leisure battery fitted (ask what type and capacity - AGM or LiFePO4, 100Ah or larger is standard)
  • Battery age - AGM batteries have a 3-5 year lifespan, LiFePO4 much longer
  • All 12v sockets and USB ports working
  • Lights all functioning
  • Solar panels (if fitted): check for cracks, check for output reading on controller
  • 240v hookup (if fitted): test with campsite cable or ask for a demonstration
  • Inverter (if fitted): confirm it powers 240v loads
  • Wiring: check for exposed cables, non-standard connections, or signs of unsafe DIY electrical work
  • Split charge or DC-DC charger fitted - confirm it works by starting the engine and watching battery voltage

Red flags: fuses taped over, wire nuts instead of proper connectors, multiple leads running from the vehicle battery rather than through a proper split charge system.

Water system

  • Fresh water tank location and capacity (20-40L is typical for a basic spec)
  • Water pump working - fill the tank and test the tap
  • No water leaks around fittings, pump or tank connections
  • Drain tap accessible and working
  • Waste pipe drains properly (check it's not just draining onto the ground if that matters for your use)
  • If a shower is fitted: test it fully

Heating

  • Night heater present (if specified) - test it
  • Webasto or Eberspacher: listen for clean operation, no smoke smell once warm, fuel pickup from van tank confirmed
  • Non-branded diesel heaters: test fully, confirm fuel supply, check for any error codes on controller
  • Heater ducting secure and routing sensible
  • CO detector fitted and working (test the alarm)
  • Smoke detector fitted
  • Gas system (if fitted): check hose condition, connections, regulator date stamp, that gas locker vents to outside, that gas appliances light cleanly

Important: if a gas hob or fridge is fitted, ask when the installation was last checked. Gas in a vehicle is a specialist area - an unsound installation is genuinely dangerous.

Sleeping

  • Bed lowers or folds flat easily
  • Sleeping surface comfortable and long enough (measure if you're tall)
  • Mattress or sleeping platform in good condition - check for damp underneath
  • Rock and Roll bed: mechanism smooth, all catches working, back locks in upright position securely
  • Fixed bed: check storage access underneath

Seating and safety

  • Rear seats (if fitted) have functioning seatbelts
  • Seat fixings bolted to the vehicle floor or a proper load-rated mounting system - not just to the conversion floor
  • Fire extinguisher present and within service date
  • First aid kit present
  • Roof ventilation fan (if fitted) working

Documents to request

  • V5C (logbook) - check registered keeper details match the seller
  • Full service history
  • Conversion documentation (spec sheet, receipt, conversion company contact)
  • Any warranty documentation (conversion company or specialist equipment)
  • Receipt for significant recent work (roof, bed, electrical, etc.)
  • MOT certificate

After the inspection

If everything checks out, consider a specialist pre-purchase inspection - an independent VW specialist can put the vehicle on a ramp and check items that aren't visible during a viewing. Many will do this for £100-£150 and it's money well spent on a purchase of this size.

Inspection FAQ

Should I pay for a professional inspection?

If you are buying privately or spending serious money, yes. A VW specialist can put the van on a ramp and spot problems you will not see in a driveway viewing.

What is the biggest red flag on a used campervan?

Poor workmanship is the one to worry about. Rust and mechanical wear can be priced, but bad electrics, leaks, unsafe seating or a weak roof installation can turn into expensive work fast.

Should I walk away if the seller has no paperwork?

Usually, yes. A campervan should have evidence for the base vehicle, the conversion, electrical work, heating, servicing and major fitted kit. Missing documents make the van harder to value and harder to insure.