What to Check Before Buying a VW Campervan

A campervan is a significant purchase. A careful viewing, a second visit or a specialist inspection can save you from an expensive repair bill after you have bought it.

This guide takes you through a methodical inspection process. Print it or open it on your phone before every viewing. Go through it section by section. And if a seller objects to you spending time checking the van properly, that tells you something important: keep looking.

Start before you arrive: the paperwork check

Some of the most important inspection work happens before you ever see the van. A paid vehicle-history check usually costs around £5 to £10 and takes only a few minutes online. It can reveal important information before you arrange a viewing.

What to check online:

Check the registered keeper history on a paid vehicle check (HPI or similar). Confirm outstanding finance, write-off history, stolen status, and plate changes. If the van has had more than three keepers, ask why.
Verify the MOT history at gov.uk/check-mot-history. Note any recurring advisories, as repeated mentions of the same component may mean the underlying problem has not been resolved.
Ask the seller who did the conversion, when, and whether they have documentation. This matters more than people realise.
Ask for photos of the conversion before viewing if you haven't already seen them. If the seller won't provide photos, walk away.

Finally, check the service history. Gaps in the service history need a convincing explanation. A van that's been serviced every 10,000 miles at a VW dealer or trusted independent is worth the premium over one with questionable paperwork.

The base vehicle: working around systematically

The conversion may be the exciting part, but the base vehicle matters equally. An engine or gearbox failure can cost thousands, while faults in the conversion can make the van uncomfortable or unsafe. Work around the exterior methodically before the living space distracts you.

Bodywork and chassis

Start with the metal underneath. Rust deserves particular attention on older T5s, especially around the sills and wheel arches where water can collect.

Panel gaps should be consistent all round. Inconsistency suggests accident repair, which means someone else's insurance claim and potentially structural issues.
Paint should match consistently across the van. Check door edges and shut lines closely, where signs of a respray are often easiest to spot.
Examine the sills and wheel arches carefully. On T5s over 100,000 miles, some surface corrosion may be expected, but structural rust needs professional assessment.
Look underneath: check the chassis rails and floor pan for excessive corrosion. Use your phone torch and lie down if you need to. Sellers rarely check here.
All lights should work: front, rear, indicators and fog lights. A broken light is not a deal-breaker, but it may suggest that routine maintenance has been overlooked.
Check the windscreen for chips or cracks. These are MOT advisories waiting to happen, and stone chips get worse on motorway drives.
Inspect the tyres: tread depth should be even across each tyre (uneven wear suggests suspension issues), no cracking on sidewalls, and check the DOT date stamp. Tyres older than five years should be replaced.
Establish whether the van has a full spare wheel, a space-saver or only a puncture repair kit. The factory spare is normally carried beneath the rear of a Transporter, but a water or LPG tank may have taken its place during conversion. If it has been removed, ask what puncture provision remains.

Pop-top or high-roof (if fitted)

If the van has a pop-top roof, inspect it carefully. This is a common failure point because canvas and seals take a beating from the weather.

The canvas should be in good condition with no tears or holes. Check the seams carefully, as repairs can be expensive.
The mechanism should operate smoothly with no sticking or grinding noises.
When closed, it should close flush with no visible gaps around the perimeter.
The struts should hold the roof up without assistance. If you have to support it, they've lost pressure and need replacement.
Check for visible seals around the perimeter. If seals are cracked or missing, water ingress is inevitable.

The engine: what matters

If you're not mechanically confident, bring someone who is with you, or pay for an independent specialist inspection. A mechanic will cost £100-£150 to put the van on a ramp and check the things you can't see. On a purchase of this size, it's money well spent.

At minimum, do this yourself:

Check the oil level and condition. Diesel engine oil turns dark quickly, so colour alone does not prove that a service is overdue. Grey or milky residue needs further investigation because it may indicate water or coolant contamination.
Check the coolant level and condition. VW coolant is commonly pink or purple, depending on the specification. It should look clean, with no oily film, brown sludge or obvious contamination.
Look for visible oil leaks around the engine and gearbox. Small weeps are normal on older engines; major leaks are not.
Inspect the drive belts. They should be intact with no cracking. Cracked belts fail without warning.
Check that battery terminals are clean and tight. Corroded terminals suggest poor electrical maintenance.
Verify the service history is present and consistent with mileage. A van serviced every 10,000 miles at a dealer is far better than one with gaps.

Engine types: The T5, T6 and T6.1 generations differ. Early T5s were available with 1.9 and 2.5-litre TDI engines. The facelifted T5.1 moved to 2.0-litre diesels, including a 140 PS version with a six-speed manual gearbox. T6 and T6.1 ranges included a 150 PS engine with a six-speed manual or DSG gearbox, depending on the model and specification, alongside higher-output versions. Check the history and requirements of the particular engine in front of you rather than assuming every T5 or T6 is the same.

Take it for a drive: the real test

Do more than drive it up the road. Allow at least 15 to 20 minutes, use a range of speeds and include different road surfaces. This is where many mechanical problems become obvious.

Cold start: Ask how long the van has been standing and make sure the engine is genuinely cold. It should turn over promptly and idle smoothly. Slow cranking, dim lights or warning messages may point to a weak starter battery, while rough running needs further investigation. Check the battery's age and make sure its type suits the vehicle, particularly if it has stop-start.
Dashboard warning lights: There should be none when the engine is running. An orange check engine light means diagnostics are needed before you buy.
Gearbox: Whether manual or DSG, changes should be smooth through all gears. Listen for grinding, hesitation or shuddering, as each needs further investigation.
Clutch (manual only): Should engage smoothly without juddering. Slipping suggests wear.
Brakes: Progressive and even, with no pulling to one side. Brake fade during repeated application suggests the system needs attention.
Steering: No vibration at speed or pulling to one side. Vibration often indicates suspension wear.
Unusual noises: Listen under acceleration, braking, and over bumps. Metallic knocking under load suggests engine problems. Clunking over bumps suggests suspension wear.
Turbo: The turbo should spool up cleanly. A slight whistle is normal; a loud whine or lag suggests boost problems.

Drive the van as a buyer would use it. If it's heavy with conversion weight, notice how it handles. If there are conversion-specific features (gas heater, for example), test them while you're moving to see if they work under way.

The conversion: quality and condition

Now we get to the living space. A poor conversion can be lived with; water ingress cannot. Look for three things: build quality, evidence of damp, and whether the systems work.

General joinery and finish

All joinery should be secure with no movement or rattling. Open drawers and lockers and close them again. Everything should operate smoothly.
Surfaces should be consistent with no gaps between units and walls larger than 5mm. Large gaps suggest poor installation or settling after conversion.
The worktop should be in good condition with no swelling, delamination, or water damage at the edges. Damage here means water has been inside the cabinetry.
Overhead lockers should be secure and closing properly. These take a beating in transit.
Floor covering should be in good condition with no lifting or water damage underneath. Lift a corner if you can and check for damp.

The smell test

This matters more than any checklist. Open the van, stand inside for a minute and notice how it smells. A fresh, dry interior is reassuring. A musty or damp smell suggests that water may be getting in. A persistent diesel smell also needs investigation, although a brief trace immediately after a heater has run can have a less serious explanation.

No amount of air freshener covers real damp. Walk away if something smells wrong.

Electrical system: more important than people think

The electrical system is what makes a campervan a home rather than a van. A failed leisure battery or broken solar panels will ruin your trip. Test everything.

Ask what type and capacity of leisure battery and charging system is fitted, how old it is and how it is charged. AGM, gel and lithium batteries can all be appropriate when the charging system is designed for them. Ask the seller to show that the battery charges from the engine, mains hook-up and solar where fitted.
All 12v sockets and USB ports should work. Carry a phone charger and test at least two sockets.
Test every light, including the main interior lights, reading lights and any exterior light.
Switch the fridge on early in the viewing and confirm that it begins to cool. Check its controls, internal light and each relevant power mode.
If solar panels are fitted, check for cracks and visible damage. Ask the seller if they can show you the controller output. Solar panels in good condition should output up to 5-6 amps per 100W of panel in good daylight.
If a 240v hookup is fitted, test it with a campsite cable or ask the seller for a demonstration. Faulty hookup wiring is dangerous.
If an inverter is fitted (converts 12v to 240v), confirm it actually powers 240v loads. Some are underpowered for their rating.
Inspect the wiring: look for exposed cables, non-standard connections, or signs of unsafe DIY electrical work. Wire nuts instead of proper connectors are a red flag.
Check that a split-charge system or DC-to-DC charger is fitted and ask the seller to demonstrate that the leisure battery charges when the engine is running. The display or battery monitor should show the system responding.

Red flags: Fuses taped over instead of replaced. Multiple leads running from the vehicle battery instead of through a proper split-charge system. Exposed battery terminals with no proper covers. Any of these suggest the electrical system has been installed by someone who didn't know what they were doing.

Water system: test it now, not later

A failed water system means cold showers and no tap. Test everything.

Note the fresh water tank location and capacity. 20-40 litres is typical for basic spec; larger tanks are better if you boondock.
Test the water pump: fill the tank and turn on a tap. Water should flow. If it's weak, the pump might be failing or the tank might be partly blocked.
Check for water leaks around fittings, the pump, and tank connections. Even small leaks will drip onto your bed or electrics.
Test the drain tap. It should be accessible and turn fully without binding.
Check that the waste pipe drains properly and ask the seller where it goes. If it drains beneath the van, you will need a suitable waste container when parked.
If a shower is fitted, test the hot and cold water, drain flow and seals. Look carefully for any sign of leakage.

Heating: important beyond summer

A heater is not essential for a van used only on warm summer trips. If you plan to sleep in it during spring, autumn or winter, however, it quickly becomes one of the most valuable parts of the conversion.

If a heater is fitted, start it from its control panel. Check that the displayed temperature looks credible, the controls and thermostat respond, warm air reaches the cabin and the heater completes its shutdown cycle properly.
Branded heaters (Webasto or Eberspacher) are preferred. Once warm, they should be nearly silent. A smell of smoke or diesel suggests a fault. Confirm that fuel is being drawn from the van tank, not a separate canister.
Non-branded diesel heaters are cheaper but need careful inspection. Test fully, confirm fuel supply is set up properly, and check for error codes on the controller.
Ducting should be secure and routed sensibly. Loose ducting means heat escapes.
A CO (carbon monoxide) detector should be fitted and working. Test the alarm.
A smoke detector should also be present.
If a gas system is fitted, check the hose condition and connections. The regulator should have a visible date stamp within 10 years. Gas lockers must vent to outside. Test that gas appliances light cleanly with no hesitation or smell.

Important: Gas in a vehicle is a specialist area. An unsound installation is genuinely dangerous. If a gas hob or fridge is fitted, ask when the installation was last checked by a qualified gas installer. Cheap gas installations are a false economy.

Sleeping: comfort and condition

You'll spend a third of your time in bed. Make sure it works.

The bed should lower or fold flat easily. No mechanical parts should require force.
Test the sleeping surface yourself. Lie on it and check that it is comfortable and long enough. If you are tall, measure the bed rather than relying on the advertised dimensions.
Check the mattress or platform for condition and damp underneath. Damp under the bed is common if water ingress has been an issue.
If it's a rock and roll bed, the mechanism should be smooth. All catches should work. The back should lock securely in the upright position.
If it's a fixed bed, check that storage access underneath is clear and functional.
A pop-top bed would normally have a thin fitted mattress that can remain in the roof. Check that it is present, clean and dry, fits the bed board and does not obstruct the roof when it closes.

Seating and safety

This section is often overlooked but it matters legally and practically.

Any rear seats fitted should have functioning seatbelts. Test them.
Some approved rear-seat and rock-and-roll bed systems include ISOFIX. Ask whether it is fitted, inspect the anchor points and check the supporting documentation rather than relying on an improvised addition.
Seat fixings should use a proper load-rated mounting system connected to the vehicle structure, not simply the conversion floor. This matters under heavy braking or in a collision.
A fire extinguisher should be fitted and within its service date.
A first aid kit should be present.
If a roof ventilation fan is fitted, test that it works. Ventilation is essential in the UK climate.

Documents: request these before you buy

If the seller can't produce these, don't buy. Period.

V5C (logbook): check that the registered keeper details match the seller. If they do not, ask why.
Full service history, ideally stamped by a VW dealer or trusted independent.
Conversion documentation, including the specification, receipt and contact details for the conversion company.
Warranty documentation for the conversion or specialist equipment.
Receipt for any significant recent work (roof repair, new bed, electrical upgrade, etc.).
MOT certificate with no major advisories.

After the inspection

If everything checks out and you are considering an offer, think about paying for a specialist pre-purchase inspection. An independent VW specialist can put the vehicle on a ramp and inspect the suspension, exhaust, brakes and hidden corrosion that are difficult to assess during a viewing. On a purchase of this size, the additional reassurance can be money well spent.

A good campervan will take you places, hold memories and, when its history and conversion are properly documented, can hold its value well. Take the time to buy a sound example rather than allowing an attractive interior to rush the decision.